Jewelry process
Start up
What is meant by "start-up"?
This process significantly reduces the value of the piece of jewelry. A thin layer of foreign material covers the jewelry. This makes it dark and unsightly. How this "tarnishing" manifests itself and in what color, depends on the respective metal composition and proportions.
Which metals can be affected?
Environmental influences discolor metal alloys. This happens particularly quickly with silver. The higher the copper content, the faster it happens. It is therefore advisable, Use sterling silver, because then the piece of jewelery in question turns black less quickly. Why is that? Sterling silver contains a higher proportion of silver. The sulfur from the air combines with the silver of the jewelry to form silver sulfide (Ag2S), it turns black. Jewelry is there for that, to be carried.
However, it happens often, that when worn directly on the skin, the beautiful piece starts up. “Juwelle” therefore provides pieces of jewelry with a labor-intensive rhodium plating. What does "rhodium plating" mean? In this jewelry process, the jewelry is coated with a thin layer of rhodium. This is a slightly bluish platinum metal. This protects the piece of jewelery from damage and tarnishing.
Other metals, who are often affected by tarnishing, are lead and zinc. This always happens, when the air in the area has a high water content with carbonic acid salt and oxide. Steel turns blue, red or yellow at higher temperatures.
Which metal is tarnish resistant??
Gold has an extremely high resistance to discoloration and tarnishing. A very common jewelry process, to protect jewelry, is it, to provide this with a gold plating. The proportion of fine gold must of course be correspondingly high. However, if the coating contains silver (750is, 585is, 333is) and copper, there is again the risk of starting. The higher the proportion of fine gold, the lower the risk of a loss of value.
Anodisers
Another very frequently used jewelry process is "anodizing" or "anodic oxidation", as this is also called. A protective layer with an oxide is applied to titanium or aluminum. Anodizing is used in jewelry production both for dyeing and as a process in itself for the production of high-quality jewelry. The application of the protective layer increases the value of the respective piece. What does the technology behind the jewelry process look like?? The blank, that is the piece of metal, from which the later piece of jewelry is to be made, is immersed in an electrolyte bath. An electrolyte is a chemical compound. Then the necessary electrical voltage is generated, which is necessary for the formation of the surface coating of oxide. The blank itself is the anode. During galvanization, Another common jewelry process for refining jewelry is the workpiece, the cathode.
Bimsen
After scraping or hammering, it is sanded with water and a pumice stone to a fine and matt finish. Before machine grinding, the silversmith or jeweler processes the jewelry.
Rub in
“Rubbing in” means setting a gemstone into jewelry. For that it is necessary, to "cut" a recess in the piece of jewelry. This must correspond in size and shape to the dimensions of the gemstone. Here it depends on accuracy of fit! The gemstone is fixed by firmly pressing the surrounding material. A narrow edge is created, which emerges a little next to the stone. In contrast, what does the frame setting look like? The bezel setting or “bezel setting ”is one of the oldest goldsmithing techniques. This very labor-intensive jewelry process consists in this, to attach a precious metal strip like this, that this forms a framework for gemstones. One of the most common gemstones so encompassed, was the brilliant or diamond. Bezel settings are often used for oval diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds.
Important! The main difference between a diamond and a brilliant-cut diamond is the cut. The type and precision of the cut increases the value of a diamond significantly. A diamond is a diamond, in which a special cut is applied. This one was 1910 invented and significantly increases the luminosity of the diamond (Light refraction!).
The advantage of a rubbed-in version is that, that the surface is smooth and the carrier does not "get stuck" so easily (dress). In addition, this setting provides excellent protection for the stone and ensures a perfect hold.
Jewelry settings
One of the most creative forms of jewelry process!
The three basic components of a ring are the ring head (Ring plate), the tire (Ring rail) and the gem. The respective version is usually based on this. The “setting” jewelry process is not only applicable to rings. It is between rubbed-in version, Bezel setting, Balkan collection, Pavé setting, A distinction is made between the Balkan setting and the prong setting. There is also the Indian version, which is also called Ceylon version.
Channel version
A channel system for the gemstones!
In this jewelry process, the gemstones are arranged side by side in metal strips like a channel. However, this variant requires, that the stones must be the same size. Do these have a pavilion cut, this must be carried out precisely. But stones with emerald, oval, Round, Princess, Baguette- or square cut can be set in this way. Because there is no metal between the gemstones, the stones can unfold their full splendor.
Balkan collection
Gemstones on sleepers!
The gemstones are placed separately between short strips of precious metal. This gives the impression of sleepers. This jewelry process is particularly suitable for rings in the square, Round, Oval-, Princess- and baguette cut.
Pavé setting (Paving stones)
The jewelry gains a lot of charisma through this jewelry process, because of the arrangement of many small gemstones next to each other (Cobblestones) the impression of greater size is created. The securing of the stones in the jewelry is ensured by metal balls. Carré-, Round, Oval-, Princess, emerald- and baguette cuts. This version is often found in combination with others.
Krappenfassung (Claw setting)
The most commonly used technique!
In this jewelry process, the gemstones are individually framed by several claws and fixed with the curved ends. They form a basket. Four prongs are the standard. All cuts can be processed for this technique. This jewelry process is used for all types of jewelry, but especially with bridal jewelry, Engagement rings and solitaire rings.
Bezel setting
A strip holds the stone!
A curved or straight strip will overlap the stone. This is one of the oldest jewelry processes, to take a stone. In principle, this procedure can be used for every cut, but turns out to be difficult with angles and straight lines. This variant is particularly suitable for large stones and active people, who move a lot.
The rubbed-in version has already been dealt with elsewhere.
Hammer
Jewelery was made with this method even in ancient times. In this jewelry process, the cold metal is brought into the desired shape with hammers. Of course, only certain metals are suitable for this machining method (Gold, silver, Messing, Copper and various alloys). This jewelry process uses various hammers, to be able to create the shapes you want. As a base (Back pressure) become anvils, Used wooden stamps or sandbags.
Sandblasting
A 100% reference to this jewelry process is a dull one, not shiny surface. The jewelry is still of high quality, but inconspicuous. This look is created by roughening the surface with the sandblasting fan. Corundum is used as a blasting agent for bombarding the jewelry, Sand, Blast furnace slag, Glass- and plastic granulate, Ice crystals or nut shells used.
Note: In mineralogy, “dignified” means the natural occurrence of chemical elements in nature, knows z. B. Gold, silver, copper, etc.
Which abrasives can be used for sandblasting??
Although it is called sandblasting, sand is not the only abrasive, to process the jewelry surface. Various abrasives are available to choose from, such as:
- To the Euchrist
- Nus dishes
- Glass granules
- Plastic granulate
- Korund
- Blast furnace slag
Doublierung
Any jewelry, which was set with diamonds, was around 1850 worked like that, that the upper part was made of silver and the lower part of yellow gold. This is called doubling. Today this jewelry process is carried out mechanically and is called diffusion (already explained elsewhere).
Dignified
In mineralogy, the occurrence of pure chemical elements in nature is called dignified. The best-known examples are precious metals such as copper, Silver and gold as well as the platinum metals.
Granulieren
This is one of the oldest known jewelry processes. The jewelry is made by molding and welding gold- and silver ornaments give structure to the surface.
Glyptik - Steinschneidekunst
The art of stone cutting (Glyptics) deals with the artistic processing of rock crystals, Precious stones and all kinds of gemstones. These jewelry processes used different types of grinding- and cutting devices. The word "glyptic" comes from ancient Greek and means "to hollow out". An artist can be a “glyptist”, who uses this technique, be. But it might as well be a gemstone expert. Hard stone carving is related to this jewelry process. Diamond cutters are not called "glyptists". Diamond grinder is the most common name. The best in this field can still be found in Amsterdam. In history, gemstones were often referred to as "gems". Jade carving was one of the most famous jewelry processes of the time.
Hard Rock
Glyptik with Hartsteinen, the historical background of the jewelry process
This jewelry process developed in 16. Century in Naples and Florence. Here were Carnelian, Jasper and onyx set in a marble matrix. Im 18. In the 19th century, the micro-mosaic dominated Rome and Naples. That is a procedure, where small pieces of glass are joined together. There has been jade work in China since the Shang dynasty, based on this jewelry process.
Glyptic categories
The difference is the look!
Figure carving is a special category of this process. In addition, there is between faceting, Cabochon cutting and drumming differentiated. Sometimes the distinction is not taken so strictly. The term "cabochon cutting" is often used for all jewelry processes of this kind. Nowadays, almost all glyptic work is done with motorized equipment. Diamond tools are also used very often (Synthetic resin, metal) used, whereby the particle sizes can be successively decreasing. the goal is, to achieve the best possible polish. It is often useful for the finishing touches, to use a different technique or element. Both cerium can do that (IV)-Oxide as well as tin oxide. Perfectionists and "hobby craftsmen" use older jewelry methods, knows z. B. with silicon carbide grinding wheels. The grinding of diamonds requires the highest degree of hardness 10 special grinders. The "Glyptik" jewelry process is so multifaceted, that clubs have formed around the world and shows are taking place.
Fayencen
lead- and tin glazes kindle the fire
The name comes from the city of Faenza (Italy). Pottery and jewelry made of clay were made with pewter- and colored lead glazes, then dried and at approx. 900 Degree fired. The jewelry is then placed in a glazed bath made of water, Zinn, lead, Potash and sand. Most of the time, the pieces are painted afterwards and then if more than 1100 Degree melted. The glaze firing is done with sharp fire colors (Ball, Rot, green, Schwarz, yellow, Mangan, etc.) or muffle colors (Metal oxides with strong boric acid- and leaded glass) painted. This jewelry process is very complex (third fire) and every step has to be set precisely, to get an optimal result. Already in 9. Century BC. Chr. Faience originated in the Persian Empire. On the island of Mallorca they are known as "majolica".
Filigree work
This jewelry process deals with the application of finer ones, corded wires or metal threads with metal beads. The name comes from Latin and means "threads" and "granum" grain respectively. here little pearl. In addition, it also includes iron cutting edges- or chasing work. Even the Etruscans in 5. Century used this technique with gold. This is how this jewelry process came to India and the entire Asian region, jewelery of this kind can still be found today. All jewelry processes of the Greeks and Etruscans were based on soldering techniques. The jewelry was very rarely engraved or chased.
Methodology and use
Fine, flexible metal threads are corded, braided or twisted. Then they are connected to the piece of jewelry by soldering. Borax is mainly used as the flux. In addition, small beads are often created from sheet metal or precious metal wire. The parts are mixed with the flux. Then deposited in small coal block holes and melted with a blowtorch. The wire then forms small balls (Pearls). Modern jewelry is made from metal bands using this jewelry process.
soldering
One of the most widely used jewelry processes!
This method connects elements, mostly metal with each other. This technique of jewelry making has been around since 7.000 Years of use. The metals used for this jewelry process include copper, silver, Zinn, lead, Tin and zinc. An alloy is formed between the solder and the materials to be connected. This is a material connection, which hold particularly well.
Important: The melting point of the workpiece must always be higher than that of the solder!
Mokume-Gane
A technique from Japan, the land of blacksmithing!
This technique was between 1600 and 1700 n. Chr. developed in the land of the rising sun. Outside of Japan, blacksmithing was only in the middle of the 19. Century known. Various thin metal layers are connected to one another. the goal is, to create an extremely high-contrast pattern. By rotation (Torsion) Particularly impressive patterns were created during the forging process. Only materials are used in this jewelry process, whose melting temperatures and degrees of hardness are almost identical. The technique is very labor-intensive and time-consuming. But the jewelry is always unique, which of course is reflected in the price.
Ice scratches
When shiny jewelry is littered with scratches, this jewelry process was used. This is intended to achieve a certain optical effect. Certain patterns are highlighted and the jewelry is unique. The surface looks, as if it was made of cracked ice. This effect is achieved with special tools.
Satin finishing
Thread styluses in perfection
In this jewelry process, the surface is machined with a thread graver, either by machine or by hand. Fine lines are created, that are crossed.
Matting
Matting with sandblasting as a jewelry process has already been discussed elsewhere. There is also treatment with chemicals. In addition, textiles can also be used, Matting wood and glass. This is important for jewelry made of glass. The surface can also be roughened mechanically with brushes, Grinding tools, etc. happen.
When it comes to jewelry, this term mostly refers to the surface of metals. There are many different processes in jewelry making, to achieve different types of matting. One distinguishes between:
- Long matte
- Sand matt
- Satin finish
- Frosted ice
Float
The back brings out the front!
By processing the metal back, the design is revealed on the front. Chasing works with furrows, Channels, Depressions and grooves. These jewelry processes are based on the deformability of the metal. This technique is very slow, but creates extremely impressive shapes. A very good example is Tutankhamun's death mask. The mask was created from a single sheet of gold using the blowing technique. Further details have been added separately. The driving technique was in ancient times (Rom) widespread.
Tools
Tools for jewelry in driving technology are made by the jeweler himself from tool steel rods. The tips are hardened. The special hallmarks are specially made for a specific pattern. The end of the tool must be beveled. This allows the metal to expand with repeated hammering, without breaking. The most common tools are doming, Matting, Graver and smoother. Matting have patterns cut into them. Smoothers are used to push out flat ones, larger areas of metal. Doming can be oval, round, be flat or pointed. So that you can work, the rod must be heated (Welding torch).
polishing
Finishing work on the surface
This jewelry process is used to smooth the surface. Different materials are polished with- and grinding wheels.
Important - distinguishing features: When grinding, an abrasive is directly connected to the grinding wheel. Grinding is more likely to remove unwanted contaminants or to prevent them, used. Whereas when polishing the abrasive is used loosely. Polishing is a less aggressive jewelry process and results in shinier ones, smoother results.
Sanded surfaces can be coated with varnish, Be coated with oil or wax, to protect them from further environmental influences. This is especially true for bronze jewelry, Brass or with high proportions of the two metals are relevant. Chemical-mechanical grinding uses corrosive silicon sludge in the grinding machine. The condition of the metal and the metal determine the use of the abrasive. When polishing, a distinction is made between the color movement and the cutting movement. A large number of polishing discs are available for this jewelry process, Materials and accessories available. The most common are impregnated rubber, Sheepskin, Paper, felt, cotton, Leinen, Manager, Wood and plastic. Leather and linen are most popular for jewelry.
Gild
The most famous jewelry process worldwide
Metallic objects are provided with a thin layer of gold. This is for this purpose, to make the jewelry more resistant and at the same time improve the appearance. In addition, this processing increases the value of the piece of jewelry. Copper, silver, Messing-, Stainless steel-, Zink- and bronze objects. Pure gold is too expensive. That is why gold alloys, knows z. B. 585he or 333 uses it. Another benefit is that, that the nickel, Zink-, Cadmium-, copper- and silver components give the gold more hardness, since gold itself is a very soft metal. Depending on the connection, other colors are created. White-, yellow- and rose gold give the jewelry a completely different look. green- and shades of blue are already possible. Gold plating uses the mechanical method on the one hand by applying flattened gold sheet or on the other hand the chemical variant with electroplating technology.
Verquicken
Jewelry is made with Quickbeize before fire gilding (Quickwasser) treated. This jewelry process allows the amalgam to adhere better. Was also used for galvanic silver / gold plating.
Zaponize
(Vernier) - refined like a small coat of jewelry!
By baking or painting the surface with colorless varnish and at the same time hardening base metals (copper, Messing) unsightly discoloration can be avoided.
Sintering
The connection of different alloys
This jewelry process works with pressure and heat in a protective gas atmosphere. The starting materials are exposed to increased mechanical pressure below their melting point. This welds them together. This process is known as "diffusion welding". This has to be done extremely precisely, otherwise the pieces of jewelery will deform very quickly. The advantages of this jewelry process are the better durability and uniformity of the connection than is the case with soldering.
to water
Great variety of shapes and options
Sandguss
One of the oldest and easiest methods of casting
This jewelry process allows it, small, to produce variable parts inexpensively. Depending on the type of sand for the molds, almost all metals can be cast using this method. This method requires a days' lead time. The result is excellent. Moist sand (green) has almost no partial weight limit. Dry sand has a partial boundary mass of 2.300 to 2.700 kg. It becomes a mixture of polymerized oils (Engine oil) or chemical binders, Sand and clay are made. The sand can be used several times!
Pour in plaster mold
This jewelry process is similar to sand casting, the sand is replaced by plaster of paris. The preparation takes approx. one week. The output rate is with 1 – 10 Units / h x shape relatively high. The surface finish is very good. The tolerances are kept to a minimum. This variant is extremely cost-effective due to plaster of paris as the molding material. The downside, however, is, that this jewelry process can only be used for non-ferrous metals with a low melting point (Zink, copper, Aluminium).
Feinguss
(Lost wax casting in the arts) the oldest known metal forming technique!
In front 5000 Years ago this process was used with beeswax. Its great popularity stems from its integrity, flexibility, Accuracy and repeatability. The only downside to this jewelry process is, that extreme care must be taken, because wax is easily deformable during mold making. The advantage is, that the wax can be reused and requires almost no or no rework. This procedure is suitable for smaller parts, different metals and high-performance alloys. Investment casting is expensive compared to sand casting and die casting.
Casting in permanent molds
The shapes in this jewelry process do not have to be constantly recreated. In addition, the permanent use of the molds enables the strand, Centrifugal-, Pressure and die casting. This enables very good results and higher reproducibility.
Permanent mold casting
A metal casting process with metal, reusable shapes (Ingot molds)
Here, gravity is used to fill the molds. Vacuum and gas pressure are other options. With mud pouring hollow parts are made. The most common metals are copper alloys, Aluminium, Zinn, Zinc and lead alloys. Graphite molds are used for casting iron and steel. However, these only have a limited lifespan.
Semi-solid metal casting
(SSM) - Reduction and elimination of residual porosity
This is a modified die casting process. This jewelry process uses thick raw material (partially solid, partly liquid). An adapted die casting machine fills the semi-solid sludge into hardened, reusable steel molds. The viscosity of the metal and the controlled conditions of the mold filling guarantee that harmful porosity is avoided. The semi-solid cast metal can withstand heat treatment up to T4, T5 and T6 stood. The cooling takes place quickly. The strength and elasticity are thus guaranteed.
Centrifugal casting and centrifugal casting!
Both jewelry methods are for little ones, Parts used with a lot of details. A vertical axis is driven by a spring or an electric motor. An articulated arm circles this axis. This construction is located in a drum or tub, in which there is hot metal. Disposable casting molds use the lost wax process. A little metal is heated in a crucible next to the mold. Is it melted?, the articulated arm loosens and presses the metal into the mold. Thus the viscosity is overcome. A finely detailed workpiece is the excellent result. This is also with the pressure- or vacuum casting can be achieved.
Glass casting - spinning!
The molten glass is pressed against the mold wall by centrifugal force and solidifies.
Gießprozess-Simulation
Optimization at the highest level
With numerical methods, the quality of the cast components is determined by calculating the mold filling, the cooling as well as the solidification optimized. In addition, the method offers a comprehensible quantity prediction via the thermal stresses, Distortion and mechanical casting properties. Because this process run before the actual procedure, time and money can be saved. This process is software-based and was developed at universities in the USA and Europe in the early 1970s.
Shell molding process
This process also comes close to the sand casting technique. However, the mold cavity is filled by a hardened shell made of And. This sand is finer and mixed with resin. This combination ensures a finer surface. This jewelry process is also often automated and is more precise than the sand casting process. This process is designed for small to medium size and is suitable for copper alloy, Aluminum and cast iron.
Enamelling
The special jewelry production
Enamel is understood as "melting" or "melting glass". This means a mass of oxides and silicates, those by sintering, Frits or melts produced in solidified form. This is then applied in several layers to glass or metal. This takes place at high temperatures and with a short burning time. Cold enamel is a synthetic resin, that is mixed with color pigments. In this process, the mass solidifies without exposure to heat and is mainly used for making jewelry. This technique has been used for jewelry in Greece since ancient times, Egypt, but also later with the Celts (Blutemail) used.
Dab
E-mails are slightly damaged, they are repaired by "dabbing". This process is also used for jewelry made from yellow gold, if diamonds have also been processed, applied. The yellow areas are dabbed with a dab filled with rhodium. The spot, where the diamond is incorporated, then looks like white gold.
Nimble
When enamelling, the underground is engine-turned, engraved and then covered with transparent enamel.
Guillochieren
Tangled, Regular or linear patterns are engraved using a metal graver and a stencil. Im 15. In the 19th century, a machine was invented specifically for this purpose. The guilloche was made in 19. Century created as a profession for this jewelry process. The guilloches are covered with translucent enamel.
Zirconia production
An artificial diamond is created
These gemstones look like diamonds. These are single crystals made of zirconium (IV)-oxide. In the 1970s, artificial cubic zirconia was synthesized in a new process at the Lebedev Institute of the Academy of Sciences of the former USSR. Zirconia powder is in a crucible, which is water-cooled, heated by induction heating and partially melted. A layer of the powder sinters together at the edge of the crucible. This creates a heat protection layer. Because this crucible has the shape of a skull, it is called the cranial crucible. The cold powder is non-conductive, therefore start with a metallic zirconium piece. This liquefies. It then melts further amounts of oxide. Be used as an additive 10 % Yitrium oxide entered into the melt. The induction power is reduced, so that the melt cools down. The result is a ZrO2 block with a protective cover on the outside and crystals on the inside. With this jewelry process, high-quality gemstones are created.
Important! The main difference between a diamond and a brilliant-cut diamond is the cut. The type and precision of the cut increases the value of a diamond significantly. A diamond is a diamond, in which a special cut is applied. This one was 1910 invented and significantly increases the luminosity of the diamond (Light refraction!).
The advantage of a rubbed-in version is that, that the surface is smooth and the carrier does not "get stuck" so easily (dress). In addition, this setting provides excellent protection for the stone and ensures a perfect hold
Damascus (Exchange)
Metal inlays, the special type of finishing
end of 19. This type of metal finishing became detectable for the first time in the 19th century. Silver sheet is engraved on a, punched plate rolled out. In addition, various wires are welded together, wonderful ornamental patterns after etching and grinding. The best known are tendrils- and flourishes (coat of arms), but also jewelry is often decorated with it.
Marquetry
A very multifaceted jewelry process
Most people only know inlays from antique furniture. Several different types of wood are layered next to each other, placed in molds and processed. The surface remains smooth. This creates patterns in the wood of the box. But mother-of-pearl and gold were also placed in mahogany boxes. For example, mother-of-pearl or gold in the shape of birds are used in bangles, Flowers, etc. inserted. The background is mostly black. This was, like swapping, very popular as a jewelry process, especially in Spain and Italy.
Diffusionsbehandlung
Gemstones can also be refined
A special heat treatment turns almost colorless corundum with a thin one, red or blue substance (Korund) diffused. This can be used to improve the color of sapphires and rubies. These must be marked as "diffusion treated".
Karmosierung
A very special challenge, To set gemstones
In this jewelry process, smaller stones are arranged like a wreath around a medium-sized stone. This technique requires a lot of skill and skill. The retaining metal should move into the foreground with the viewer in the background, with the stones in the foreground. However, there are many variations, how to do this. With the classic carmosis, claws hold the center stone. The curbs are in a slab, under which there is a squad, drilled in. This is how it appears to the viewer, as if every little stone was sitting in a chaton.
Hallmarking (stamp)
Security in the jewelry business
Hallmarking is a jewelry process, where stamps are attached to real pieces of jewelery. These provide information about the composition of metals, the purity content and much more. The manufacturer's coat of arms or mark (Jewelers, Company) and the year of manufacture. This is always in a hidden place in the jewelry. In the case of diamonds, there is laser engraving instead (Identification Number).
What legal information does the hallmark need (Hallmarking) contain?
This contains the fineness of the precious metal in thousandths. 750/1000 means a fine gold content of 75 %. Manufacturer's marks can be found primarily on antique or very old jewelry. There is also a lot of additional information, but which can vary from country to country. In England there is also the hallmark of the testing institute on the piece of jewelery.
How is hallmarked?
This jewelry process is done with a stamping tool (Metal pins), the end of which has a geometric shape, "written" in the piece of jewelery. This is an embossing. The writing and characters are sunk into the metal. In modern times, these are already prefabricated, so that time is saved.
Cut of precious stones
Refinement at the highest level
This jewelry process changes the shape and type of gemstones. This increases the shine, and the optical effects are more pronounced. colour, Purity and cut are the criteria, after which the value z. B. of a diamond is rated. The types of cut are between facet cut (Shiny) and smooth finish (Cabochon) differentiated. There are three grinding levels (Top, Lower part, Rundiste).
Smooth slip
The preferred cut for opaque or translucent gemstones
A smooth one, Edge-free surface except for the girdle is created by this decorative process. This is the only jewelry process, that the optical effects Chatoyance, Can produce asterism and adularescence. The typical one, excellent shine comes into its own here. The most commonly used smooth cut is the cabochon. Drum-, Bullet- and layer stones are further variants.
Facet cut
A jewelry process from the 15. century
Little ones, polished surfaces (Facets) reflect, refract and split the penetrating light in multiple colors. This is called the "fire of a stone". In addition, there is the modern full brilliant cut (1910) to disposal, which amplifies this effect many times over. This is done through defined angular relationships and an exact arrangement of the facets. It is between the Pendeloque, the scissors, Stairs- and the rose cut.
Mixed cut
A combination between facets- and smooth finish
The most famous types of this jewelry process are the "Ceylon cut" and the "Indian cut". In the former, the upper part is machined using scissors and the lower part using a step cut. The Indian cut is carried out in the upper part as a step cut and in the lower part as a scissor cut.
Polygon
The corners are a distinctive criterion for the type of cut
In addition to the types of cut already mentioned, there are of course a number of well-known ones, but also less known types of cut, which are named after the corners. In addition, there are also fantasy cuts - such as fan-shaped, coat of arms- or star cut. Of course, it can also be ground in circular, Ellipses- or become egg-shaped.
Rose cut
(Amsterdam rose, Dutch rose, Simple rose)
In this jewelry process, the lower part is flat and points to the curved top 24 triangular facets. Here, too, there is now a wide range of variations.
Pendeloque
It is an egg-shaped cut. This has on the top 24 triangular as well 8 square facets.
The three-dimensional shapes include the spherical and the olive-shaped brilliant cut, the teardrop-shaped facet cut. "The big star of Africa", One of the largest diamonds in the world was in pears- or. Ground teardrop shape.
Murano Glasherstellung
For particularly filigree jewelry - knows diversity and luminosity
Murano is a group of islands northeast of the lagoon city of Venice in Italy. Since then, glass art has spread far beyond the country's borders 9. Century known. Venice is considered to be the cradle of Central European glass production. Because of the risk of fire, this was im 13. Relocated to the island in the 19th century. As this was one of the most lucrative deals in Venice, was banned from glassblowers on the death penalty, to reveal their knowledge. Nevertheless, the 15. Century Ballarin, Stealing dyeing methods and some recipes.
Ballarin became one of the most successful glassmakers on Murano. The Museo Del Vetro impressively shows the thousand-year history of glass production and thus of this special jewelry process. This jewelry process makes use of the luminosity of the colors through the special dyeing methods. The additives in the glass mixtures resulted in particularly thin-walled glasses, which is good for filigree things, knows z. B. Birds, leaves, etc. In addition, colors, to shape, Make combinations, that would not be possible with conventional glass.
Niello ornaments
For silver and gold. An ancient technique.
These are ornaments, those on different metals (also bronze, copper) pressed in by steel plates, incised or engraved drawings. The wells are heated with, black metal color (Niello) filled out. This consists of copper and sulfur silver. Then the work is sanded and polished. The process is very laborious, but brought breathtaking results as the grave goods of ancient Egypt showed. This technique was also used for jewelry. The color mass is melted, cooled and then crushed. Then the powder is mixed with water and a bit of borax. The mass is melted with glowing coals, cooled down and then scraped away, so that the mass only remains in the depressions. The contrast comes between gold, Silver and black are particularly effective with this jewelry process.
Gyroscopes
In this jewelry process, the surface on the inside is brushed circularly with flat steel brushes. This creates patterns on medallions and watch cases.
Cameo making
An engraving is made from a raised gem stone relief. This is onyx, Lavagestein, Mollusc shell or chalcedony processed. The jewelry wins through the different tones of the material as well as the highlighting of the lighter one, increased part of the darker one, lower part of the engraving. This jewelry process is popular for brooches, Earrings, Call, etc. used.
Incrustation
Two stones in one!
This jewelry process is an inlay, which was also very well known in ancient times. A colored stone is incorporated into a different colored stone. This is particularly common with light and dark marble.
IP / PVD coatings
This means the application of a gold layer. PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition. Lichtbogenladungen (Arc process), Laser beams, Magnetically deflected ions and electrons are evaporated from the target. This jewelry process can give the jewelry a different color. It also becomes more durable, more resistant and shows a better look.
Lapidieren
Everywhere over there, where manual grinding is not possible, are vertically rotating steel disks with polishing- and sandpaper used. The grain size determines the degree of polishing. This jewelry process is used with faceted rings, etc. used.
Laminate
After stripping, the stretching of gold-silver grain is called "lamination". But also the welding of a noble metal layer on a base is so called.
Plate
A form of metal finishing!
The word comes from French and means veneer, Double, Edition, Plate or chalkboard. What is meant by this jewelry process is the application of a chemical noble metal coating with the help of electrolysis. This method is often used in clocks. This jewelry must be marked with “plated” or “plaque” and the method of manufacture, knows z. B. Contains “G” for “Galvano”. This is not an official hallmark, but still has to be attached by the manufacturer.
Toledo work
The Spanish city of Toledo was a center for blacksmithing and goldsmithing, especially in the Middle Ages- and fine inlays. As a Toledo work, hammering and chasing become finer silver- and gold wires denoted in precious metals.
Chiseling
is a structure-giving surface technology in which on the surfaces of jewelry and equipment, for example, ornaments and figures with the help of chisels, Burins or punches (Stamp for metalworking) be worked out plastically.
Imitationen
Tripletten
Make one out of three
This is understood to mean the composition of amorphous and crystalline bodies. This jewelry process uses recrystallization techniques, des Kittens, Melting, etc. The parts can be natural, artificial, be of the same or different origin. Mostly it is a three-layer gem stone. Mainly opals and emeralds are imitated.
Lapislazuli
The luminosity of the sea – The Berlin blue!
It is one of the most popular gemstones of all. Because of its bright blue color, the stone was used for jewelry in almost all countries in ancient times (Tutenchamun!) and used as a powder for painting. But since this was and is expensive, is imitated a lot. Quartz stones are used and colored. Jasper with "Berlin Blue" and is called "German Lapis Lazuli", "Blue Onyx" or "Swiss Lapis". If an imitation gemstone is treated with ammonia or in an ultrasonic bath, unsightly spots appear on the surface. Thus, imitations can be "exposed".
Facsimile jewelry
Another kind of anti-theft protection
Because real jewelry is expensive and easy to steal, more and more pieces of jewelry were "facsimile", thus reproduced. Less high-quality metal as well as foiled glass stones or synthetic gemstones were used for this. Facsimile jewelry is almost indistinguishable from real ones.
Fish silver beads
The pearl from the sea and yet again not
Mother-of-pearl and fish scales are bound with glue. Because of its mother-of-pearl shimmer, the “fish silver” was used for painting (18. and 19. Century) and used for covering hollow glass beads and glass spheres. The inexpensive fish silver beads were very popular as jewelry.
Parian
Ein Imitat, that protects animals from extinction
This jewelry process is made from 29,70 % Clay, 4,40 % Natron, 63,75 % Silica 1,50 % lime, 0,50 % Bitter earth and 0,15 % other materials Parian, the artificial ivory, produced. 1850 Mary Brougham was considered a leading producer.
The making of Mayan blue
Sepiolith- or palygorskite clay is colored with indigo. After that, both will be done with Copal 100 ° C merged. The intensity of the color depends on the pH and the indigo concentration. This jewelry process shines through its resilience, Verwitterungs- and alkalis- as well as heat resistance. Mayan blue was used for paintings (Chichen-Itza), Ceramics, Used sculptures as well as jewelry.