Settings for diamonds & Gemstones
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The ring and its role
The wedding ring plays a significant role in the marriage covenant and should last at least as long as love itself - at best forever. The seal of an eternal bond is strengthened by the symbolic character of a beautiful ring. In order to bind the gemstones to the piece of jewelery forever and bring it to bear, different ring sockets are used.
But not with drowsiness- and wedding rings, longevity is of enormous importance, but all jewelry should be able to withstand any time.
The types of settings described below are used for necklaces, Bracelets, Earrings and rings used.
The stone trimmings
Only the gemstone used completes the ring and makes it what it is. The stone setting is decisive for design, Kind and especially for the price.
The possibilities of the stone setting are very extensive and there are over 500 various gemstones in various shapes, Colours, Grinding, Sizes and prices to choose from.
By combining the materials in terms of metal and gemstone, in interaction with the most diverse types of frames, the creativity of the jeweler can be given free rein. The customer also has a wide range of options to choose a perfect piece of jewelry.
Gemstone settings
When creating a piece of jewelry, different versions are used, to connect the gemstones with the piece of jewelry or. to fix, used. The type of setting depends mainly on the size and type of gemstone, according to its cut and also according to its nature.
The type of setting is also geared towards preventing the loss of the stone and should also guarantee it, that the piece of jewelry cannot cause any injuries or damage (with. B. Damage to clothing must be prevented). In particular, attention is also paid to this, cleaning can be carried out as easily as possible. Any repairs should also remain unaffected by the type of frame.
Bezel setting
The frame setting has the advantage of a high protective effect on the respective stone. Here the stones are enclosed with fine metal strips and thus bound to the piece of jewelry and firmly fixed. Compared to other types, this version is very labor-intensive, but has the decisive advantage, that all gemstones and their cuts are protected even if they are worn frequently.
The technique is a very old and recognized way, to guarantee the reliability of the hold of the gemstones. This frame variation shines through its long tradition, which is why an antique charm accompanies the piece of jewelery. The fantastic light refraction of the stone is particularly known for this version of the frame.
The stone is inserted into a specially made recess in the piece of jewelry and then surrounded by strip-shaped rings and thus fixed in place. As soon as the gemstones are cut very straight and have strong straight edges, a frame setting can be difficult to implement. A half-frame setting is more suitable for such gemstones, in which the stone is only partially enclosed. Round and oval stones are predestined for the frame setting. Also cabochon (unfacettierte, round or oval shape of the cut of a gemstone, Underside is flat, Upper side arched outwards) and faceted stones are ideal for the type of frame setting.
Rubbed in socket
This type is essentially recognizable by this, that a conical recess is worked into the piece of jewelry. This notch serves as a bed for the respective gemstone, so that the surrounding metal can be pressed against the stone. The top of the stone thus remains freely visible and unaffected by metal.
The piece of jewelery processed with this type thus develops an even and uniform appearance and ensures this, that the stones can catch light.
Trinity frame
As the name indicates, three stones are used in the Trinity setting. It becomes a main diamond, which is usually different in color and size from the other two, set in the middle, so that two small stones surround it and emphasize it.
The three stones symbolically represent the past, Present and for the future.
Channel version
The canal setting got its name from the lining up of the stones, so that they form a "channel". This variation of the setting is particularly recommended for small elements and is often found.
In this variant, the stones are arranged directly next to each other, so that no gaps can arise. Because of this peculiarity, can be reached, that the stones achieve their maximum brilliance through the refraction of light. This type is used for most wedding rings.
The type is referred to as channel socket, the small stones in a straight line and run with the design. The species has two sides, a floor and is arranged in the "U-shape".
The length and width of the stone used differ only minimally here and smaller burrs are cut into the wall of the stone. The existing notch is used, to insert the gem. Then the metal is pressed down on the top and the stone is hereby fixed. This technology makes the channel socket particularly reliable in holding the stone.
A channel is set, by cutting a notch for each stone directly into the workpiece and is the traditional use of channel setting. However, the use of a burr is the cheaper option and is therefore used more often.
Due to its nature and material, the metal can sometimes be very difficult to work with. For this reason there are tools designed for jewelry, with. B. small jackhammer. This jackhammer is used, to hammer the solid material down, since this is almost impossible by hand. Then the usual fine work for straightening and cleaning the edges is carried out. The edges next to the stones will be, if required, Filed down.
There are also several options for varying the duct version. There are variants, where the edges are intentionally raised or a larger stone is placed in the middle between two beams and this stands high above the ring and protrudes. In another type of channel setting, the stones are set directly in connection with the metal through an incised channel.
Beam mount
The beam socket is similar to the duct socket and is a modification of it. This version differs from the canal version mainly through the spaces in between, resulting from this application. These smaller spaces are filled with metal railway sleepers.
With this type of setting there is no side frame and thus two sides of the stones remain "open", which provides a special light influence and ensures a brilliance. Metal and precious stone alternate and create a special feeling of symmetry.
If the tips of the claws are visible and protruding, these are often bent over, Make it rounded or tapered. The advantage of this version is its flexibility and adaptability, with which most of the cuts are covered.
The beam version comes into its own, if smaller, colored gemstones should be used, as these are brought into focus by the frame and the shine is enhanced.
Krappenfassung
This type of setting is used very often nowadays and is mainly found in modern jewelry. Sometimes it is also called the claw setting, because the mounts resemble claws.
Here, three to six prongs are usually placed around a gemstone to attach the stone, so that a claw-like basket is created as a holder. It is important that the distance between the individual stones remains constant. Then the claws and their ends are bent over, to prevent the stone from slipping out.
The common way is to use four claws, however, several prongs can ensure a secure hold of the stone.
The manufacturer of the piece of jewelry individually decides in which way the claws are bent upwards, so that the appearance can always vary.
Tension mount
The tension setting is specialized for platinum rings in combination with diamonds, Sapphires or rubies, because these materials are particularly hard. Because of the high pressure, softer fabrics have difficulties with this type of frame. To prevent, A small strap is usually used to ensure that the socket opens, that is placed between the ends.
This type has the mode of action, that the stone almost "floats" on the ring, what by the tension force, generated by the material, arises. The force positions the ring in place.
For other types of material (with. B. White gold, Yellow gold and palladium) there is the possibility to use this type, by attaching a bar for material relining. The refraction of light of the stone makes the bridge invisible and at the same time shines unhindered through the stone.
This special kind makes the piece of jewelery look very modern and has only recently become more popular.
Cloisonné version
This is by far the oldest way of attaching a gemstone to a piece of jewelry. The required socket is attached directly to the piece of jewelery with a special soldering tool through fine soldering, so that the stone can be used.
From this the subspecies of the box setting developed, in which the stone is pressed into place by an edge on the upper side of the setting.
Channelfassung (German thread setting)
The name comes from this, because with this possibility of stone fastening, the stones are lined up very close together, that it looks, as if the stones were strung on a thread.
Clusterfassung
This type of setting is characterized by the special way in which the stones are “suspended”. The individual stones are placed close to each other and at different heights.
The baguette setting (German staff version)
This setting is used for smaller gemstones, which were previously processed with the baguette cut. The baguette cut is a cut, which creeps the stones in a rectangular shape and thus causes them, that the length of the stones exceeds twice or even three times the respective width. Such stones are usually very delicate and several stones are attached to a piece of jewelry. The effect is very restrained.
The corresponding version, which was designed for this, is the baguette setting. The main goal of this type of frame is it, to be able to look at the stone as uncovered as possible. Either claws are used for fastening, or a setting is embedded directly on the piece of jewelery.
Bague is translated from French into German with bar.
Chatonfassung
The combination of the frames- and prong setting is called a chaton setting.
As one of the simplest versions, the chaton version is found relatively often. By using metal sparingly, the stone comes into its own.
Thin metal wires are used to create this setting (Sink) used, to attach the jewelry. Here, the nature of the stone determines the size and shape of these prongs.
The gem is from the edge, which separates the two halves of the stone (Rundiste) bordered and thus fixed.
To separate the "carrier" of the individual stones, burrs of the appropriate size are used for the stone (always at an angle to the stone). A hard burr that has been adapted in size is used especially for diamonds, which is cut evenly for all tines. This is followed by special tools (usually a pair of pliers or a slider) used, to bend the prongs over the crown of the stone. The protruding tips are cut off in this way, that these can be sanded to a uniform height.
To construct rounded tips on the end of the wire prongs, so-called "cup burrs" are made in the shape of a hemisphere. The burr has teeth on the inside, what makes this species unique.
The chaton version is very extensive and offers many possibilities for use. In the course of time, many different variants were created, which differs, among other things, in the number of tines used. There are pieces of jewelry, at which more than 24 Tines are used.
Another special feature of the chaton version are the many possible variations in terms of the decorations. With the size, the form, with the prongs, the right decoration and with the stone itself, beautiful and creative pieces can be made.
Collet frame
Similar to the kettle version, there is the Collet version. Here a hole is cut through the workpiece, with the same shape of the gem. Should a gemstone have the shape of a drop (often found on wedding rings), the Collet version is used. A lot of skill is required for this species.
Pavé setting
The pavement registration referred to in German applies, when many stones of the same size are set in a kind of pavement.
The aim is to create a composite of the individual stones and thus to leave as little space as possible between the stones.
First, indentations are created on the piece of jewelry, in which the stones are inserted.
The fixation is guaranteed here by pierced grains, d.h. that the metal is pressed around the gemstone.
The aim of this procedure is, to expose the top of the stone freely, without a frame obstructing the view.
Because in this variant large spaces are deliberately avoided, At the same time, metal is used very sparingly and thus the gemstones are connected, one sees here similarities to a cobbled street, where the name of this variant comes from.
The Elements, which contribute to the fixation and usually have the shape of small spheres (these are attached directly to the frame material), give the whole thing a special charm.
Preferred gemstones for paving are among others. Stones with carré, Emerald-, Baguette-, Oval- and round cuts.
The variant is also popular, in which small gemstones are bundled to form a pavement appearance on the right and left and this bundling thus becomes a large one, to bring out the central gemstone.
Micro pavé frame
It is more or less the same as the pavé version described above, however, a microscope is used for the application here, to be able to insert the small stones by hand.
This type of setting can be recognized by the unique sheen of the stones used. The shape plays a minor role. In combination with a central, large gemstones, this type of setting occurs frequently and is also best shown to advantage and is intended to emphasize the green stone.
Perlenfassung
Similar to a pearl necklace, In this variant, small holes are drilled directly into the metal surface. Very fine burins or chisels are used as aids. Ball burrs are then used again, to create the required concave indentation in the stone.
To ensure fixation by means of a carrier, either a carrier pin is used or the stone is set directly into the concave recess.
After the stone has been inserted into the recess, the special tool comes (small chisel) is used and finds its application by pushing the metal over the edge of the stone.
The name of the version comes from this, so that the metal is pushed over the stone, that a small pearl is created. A special tool is used for this, used the so-called Perl tool. The Perl tool is characterized by a steel shaft with a concave recess cut on the tip and was specially designed for this type of setting. The metal around the stone is pressed down with the help of the tool and rounded off, whereby the well-known pearl shape is created.
Many other version variations use this methodology. In the pavé setting described above (pavé = plaster), become the many, small stones also held together by this technique.
This technician is also used for the star socket. The star version is therefore called that, because several stones are placed next to each other in a line, making them a long line, similar to a constellation.
Further deviations in the method of pearl setting in Europe are under the names "Pearl and Hell", "Front sight setting" or "threading" can be found. These deviations are essentially characterized by this, that after the stones have been inserted, the rest of the metal is cut off in geometric shapes. Four pearls are created in a rimmed and lowered box shape.
Because often several stones should be fixed in this way, it is relevant to keep the elongated shape and the raised edge.
Im 20. This version had its boom in the 19th century, however, it is still used frequently today.
Polished setting
Also called the flush version (earlier also gypsy version, the term is no longer used today due to political correctness). This variation is similar to the pearl setting and therefore differs significantly, that instead of lifting the bead using a polishing tool, the metal is "polished" round and pushed around the stone after the stone has been inserted. Care is taken, that the stone is inserted flush with the surface and thus has a polished edge all around. This type is refined by the regular use of sandblasting.
This way of binding gemstones to the piece of jewelery has a long history and is still used today.
Waste version
This version is differentiated by it, that the stones are embedded directly in the piece of jewelry and the part of the production of a separate component is suspended.
Smaller metal grains are cut out of a base with a sickle, what causes the fixation and thus the placement of the respective stones. That is why the name grain holder is often used for this type of holder. The resulting holes are covered by creating flat surfaces again. This causes a slight lowering of the surfaces, wes is called blending in technical jargon.
Halo version
Probably the most exclusive way of attaching a diamond to a piece of jewelry and setting it in scene is the halo setting. This type of setting makes the gem look like this, as if it were surrounded by a halo.
The peculiarity is that, that the main stone is bordered with several smaller stones, making it appear much larger. This can be easily explained by the optical illusion, which is caused by the difference in size of the gemstones used.
The preferred cut for this setting technique is the round cut, however, the methodology can also be adapted to other forms.